Chapter 16

Sakana no Bu (さかなの部)
Snacks with Sake

Sakana refers to snacks and tidbits (otsumami) that are meant to be eaten along with sake. The word itself comes from sake (alcohol) and na (vegetables), but encompasses much more. In fact, fish was so often used that it became known as sakana in common parlance, and is still called such, today.

There is no common thread in terms of preparation for the items in this chapter, with recipes ranging from faux scrambled eggs, to pickles, to other fish and vegetables.

1. Tamago fuwafuwa 玉子ふわふわ (Scrambled egg)

Break one egg and add one third of the egg’s volume of dashi tamari and irizake. Steam well and serve. It should not be hard. When you put in such things as ina intestines or fowls’ innards, it is also called nobusuma.

2. Makikamaboko まきかまぼこ (Rolled fishcake)

Place kamaboko on egg funoyaki. Line up arame on top of that. Roll it tightly and press down on the top. Put in a little salt, then boil and cut.

3. Makizurume まきするめ (Rolled cuttlefish)

Wash the cuttlefish. Sprinkle a little kuzu flour and wrap it up. Press down with rice straw and boil it, then let it cool and cut it.

4. Tataki zurume たゝきするめ (Tenderized cuttlefish)

Broil slightly, put it on a board and beat it well, then steam.

5. Me maki めまき (Rolled seaweed)

Wrap yamaimo in arame, boil, and cut it in various ways. Also sprinkle on a little kuzu flour.

6. Namabi 生干 (Dried fresh)

Cut fresh katsuo as appropriate. Clip pieces with cedar chopsticks, tie, and boil. Scorch, cut, pour on tamari, and serve. Also prepare with mejika and warasa.

7. Sake no namabi 鮭のなまび (Dried fresh salmon)

Cut fresh salmon in the same manner as samegai mochi. Brine in saltwater. Leave it in for only a short period. Then let it dry, scorch, and serve.

8. Taka no ha 鷹の羽 (Hawk feather)

Place kamaboko on a cedar board. Meanwhile add arame. Boil and divide. Cut it diagonally, so that it will look like a hawk’s feathers.

9. Sake ni iru kezurimono 酒に入候けづり物 (Shaved into sake)

Assemble together ingredients such as dried cod, cuttlefish, dried and filleted salmon, dried squid, kisugo, fukume, iriko, skewered abalone, hanagatsuo, wakame, aonori, and rokujō tōfu. As for rokujō tōfu, it is prepared with a tsukigana.

10. Momi fu もみふ (Crumbled wheat gluten)

Take fu and crumble fine into sake and simmer in dashi tamari. Alternatively, you could add umeboshi and hiragatsuo. It is also simmered in aged sake.

11. Tamazusa 玉章 (Snake gourd)

Karasuuri gourds. Also called kinbun. It is good to roast it in tamari and fry it. Other than that, it is good to add such things as apricot kernels, peach kernels, kuromame, karakawa, and ginger. Also use bottle gourds.

12. Fuki no tō ふきのたう

Boil and skewer the head of the butterbur. Baste with sanshō miso and broil. It can also be done without boiling.

13. Kiri sanshō 切山椒 (Cut sanshō pepper)

Take the white kernels from inside sanshō peppers, grind well, and add hanagatsuo and miso. You should season to a good extent with salty seasoning. Knead, flatten out and cut it fine into square pieces. Dry it well and put it on the stove. Also put in citrus peel. Add tamari.

14. Awabi no namabi あわびの生干 (Dried fresh abalone)

Shave abalone thin along the side. Dry on a screen, pour on irizake and serve.

15. Hiyashimono 冷し物 (Cold foods)

Daikon, melon, aubergine, lotus, black kuwai, apple, peach, plum, apricot, chestnut, Japanese pear, and various others as well. Seasonal foods are good.

16. Nashimono なしもの

Use tai fry and entrails of the same, the back entrails of saba, fukudame, sardines, sea urchins, uruka and fry of the same, naru fry, wild duck entrails, salmon entrails, fish eggs, shitsuki, minced katsuo, hibari, quail, and various others.

17. Sudzuke 酢漬 (Vinegar pickles)

Myōga, ginger, ume, soapberry, bamboo shoots, bōfū, udo, lotus, ginseng, hotade, sanshō, shiso, matatabi, and various others. Add 3 gō of salt to 1 shō of vinegar.

18. Awabi wata ae あわびわたあへ (Blended abalone entrails)

Simmer the entrails and grind. Put in grilled miso and ginger and grind well. Pour vinegar over the abalone and stir fry. Blend as is.

19. Tairagi wata ae たいらぎわたあへ (Blended tairagi entrails)

Scald entrails and cut. Blend with ginger miso and sanshō miso. For this, the tairagi is stir fried.

20. Notonori 能登のり

Wash in water. Massage in irizake. Chop up chestnut and ginger and add them. Sprinkle on black pepper powder and serve.

21. Moyashi もやし (Bean sprouts)

Cook as grilled seri and serve. Also with irizake.

22. Tamago hasu 玉子はす (Egg lotus)

Drain just the yolk of the egg into the middle of a lotus. Close the mouth, boil, cut, and serve.

23. Tōkurage 唐海月 (Jellyfish)

Salt and mince. Chop and add ginger. Drop vinegar into irizake, pour it on, and serve.

24. Ukiki うき木 (Sunfish)

Blanch. Serve in fresh ginger vinegar.

25. Umitake 海茸

Ginger vinegar and irizake are good.

26. Mujintsuke 無尽漬 (Inexhaustible pickles)

From among such things as karakawa, kikurage, umeboshi, bamboo shoots and the sweet skin of the same, sagarame, konbu, hondawara, gingko nuts, tosaka, ginger, myōga, gobō, soapberry, small ume, apricot kernel, peach kernel, boiled tokoro, lotus, ginseng, citrus peel, ogo, and aonori (tied), it is good to put in whatever is around at the time. Outside of these, there are other methods of preparation.